You have the whole ocean as the “world”.
The waves are the opportunities in our everyday lives.
The line-up, where everybody else is waiting for their own perfect wave to catch, represents “the” places, objects, time and people who gave us and constantly allow us to have opportunities. The line-up is where “everything” sets.
There’s a current that will constantly pull you away from your “spot” or from the line-up. Most of the time, you get pulled away unnoticed.
There’s only one way to fight the drift: PADDLE! Paddle your way back to the spot or to the line-up. I know it’s hard because you have already paddled your way out to the line-up from the shore but if you don’t paddle back, you may not only loose your chances in getting a perfect wave and have the possible “best ride” of your life, but a wild wave might also come to where you got lost and boom! Wipeout!
In catching a wave, there are times that the waves may be too big for us to get and the only way for us to go is down under. There are waves that are too small for us and we can choose to ride it smoothly and when we reach the shore, we will have to paddle back again to the line-up. Some people may find this alright but some people think this will just be a waste of time and a missed opportunity in getting a better ride.
We may have the “skill” or enough experience in reading the waves and trying to see if the next wave is “the one” for you, the good thing is you have your family and friends as the “other dudes and dudettes” or “other surfers” who are there with you on the line-up. They will help you and make sure that you get to ride a wave at least once. While there are some dudes who will challenge you and might even make you feel that he or she is damn better than you, some will not quit in pushing you to go beyond your limits. Other than that, still the saddest thing is when you surf alone.
Riding the wave is the best thing. It’s also the best feeling. Just the feeling of being able to get or catch that wave on your own is something! All of a sudden, your hard work, your arms that hurt so bad from paddling and running after that wave, and your fear of getting another “wipeout” are all gone. Swoooooooosh! You start hearing yourself saying: “Oh! It’s worth it!”
Riding a wave is the exact moment or experience in our lives where we feel “This is it!” or we just simply feel GOOD and HAPPY as if we’re floating or flying. There are a lot of things that can happen in riding a wave. You can ride it and own it! Feel awesome because you are so good at riding it. You can even do your tricks on it like trim it or do a cut back or even an aerial if you can. You can finish it up to the shore and go paddle back again for another ride. You can also fall because you can loose your balance and boom another wipeout. You can finish and just call it a day.
The best thing is you learn something new in your every ride. Even if you’re so good at surfing, you will still be surprised in what the wave has to offer you. It’s unpredictable. One thing’s for sure, you took that ride. Oh yes, you may have finished it and rode it like a “dirty bum bum claat” or you may have fallen down and the wave just wiped you out, the important thing is you took it, and you didn't give up. You helped yourself up and breathe again. Then you can tell yourself… “I think, I just think, I can call myself a surfer.” :)
Other than everything that was mentioned, there’s only one thing left, your surfboard.
Your surfboard and your leash are the things that will stick with you no matter what. When you paddle out to the line-up, when you’re on the line-up, when you’re being pulled away by the current, when you try to paddle back, when you catch a wave, ride a wave, when you’re being wiped out, and even when you give up and just call it a day, your surfboard and your leash will walk with you. It’s like God and prayer walking with you... It is the sweetest ride that will always bring you back to the shore :D
Life is like Surfing. Go and Paddle! Have a great ride! :)
@Normi2's Beachfront Resort, Taboc, San Juan, La Union
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